RE: leveling jacks on class c
Our RV is under 24' in over-all length. This means we can fit in most any campsite, which also means it gets into a few uneven & hilly sites.
We use These bought off the web, and These bought from Wal-Mart.
I stuck one level near each rear wheel, one in the back, and two in the cab by the driver. In most cases we turn the steering wheel a little, and let tires go in and out of dips in the parking pad, and all is level enough. On rare occasion, we pull out the orange interlocking blocks.
Total investment was only $130. And it all weighs just a few pounds too.
I advise you take your $4000 and invest $2500 of it in heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars, Koni-RV shocks, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, and a Henderson rear trac bar, along with a good wheel alignment. Not only do those greatly improve the handling of the RV, they also significantly reduce the RV's rocking motion when parked.
RE: E Superduty chassis
I think The Frog has jumped in the right direction. My E450 (CoachHouse) is only 23 feet long. The rear springs would probably be more accommodating with another few thousand pounds of weight on them.
Can't complain about the handling, braking, performance etc. Just rides like a skateboard.That is one gain from the E450....better handling in a smaller/lighter application.
Our 2007 E350 RV is only 23.5 feet long. It had handling issues that we resolved through heavy duty front and rear sway bars, along with other things. It now handles and rides much closer to an SUV. We are extremely pleased with the results. We tow a small car too, which adds more to the equation.
RE: Car Towing Methods
Do these secondary braking systems vary a lot in how they perform? There seems to be no accomodation for how much the tow vehicle will react to the lead vehicle other than thrusting forward.
Have you ever had the tow vehicle lock up it's rear wheels and skid? What about the loss of effectiveness in the tow vehicle's power brake booster? Is there a secondary vacuum system to address that? If not, won't working the tow vehicle's brake pedal be near ineffective?
It seems scary if the tow vehicle goes into a skid when the lead vehicle is still in control with it's ABS in action. I'd like to hear how these systems perform when conditions are at their worst, like in snow & rain, or like hitting the brakes real hard when taking a turn too fast. Or worse yet, turning & braking hard in rain or snow.
After-all, it is under those extreme conditions, when you should appreciate these secondary systems the most.
RE: E Superduty chassis
Cool Mike, You are right about all that. But it seems the differences between the E350 & E450 became a little less in more recent years, though most points you mentioned still apply today. Things the same these days are the V10 and brakes.
I want to mention, it is risky to say that an E450 is better than an E350 in every Class-C application. If the RV is scaled down and lighter in weight, yet built on an E450, it will ride more like an empty dump truck than an SUV, bouncing over every road imperfection. It would be an over-rated chassis. We do read some threads here with such complaints as being quite serious.
RE: Car Towing Methods
.... tow a 2008 Jeep Rangler Sahara 4200#......A Wrangler weighs 4200lb.? Oh, that is twice my car. Maybe I'm wrong on my statement above.
RE: LCD TV Problems?
When shopping for an LCD TV, be sure the viewing angle is good considering your setup. Most TV's are mounted high in RV's. Some pictures on LCDs disappear at that viewing angle.
I found a 26" widescreen Samsung This One For $647 (free Shipping No Tax) to work best for our particular RV application. It has a good low and side viewing angle. The raised but invisible controls face forward too which is better considering the sides and top were confined in our RV.
RE: Car Towing Methods
Just looking at what you have, it appears that there are more advantages in the wheels down.....and I'm sure that most of the people on this forum would agree!I am one to agree with PapPappy. The only complication I see with towing a Jeep Wrangler as with most other vehicles, is the secondary braking requirement.
My 2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder is 2100 pounds, so I am getting by without secondary braking with my 2007 E350 chassis RV.
I have wondered if secondary braking would be neccessary when towing a Jeep Wrangler, if I had a 2008/2009 chassis. The brakes on the newer E350s & 450s have bigger rotors, pads, and calipers along with hydro-boost compared to the conventional vacuum power boost brakes on mine. Comparing that to my setup, logic says it should be okay to tow a JW without secondary braking. Keep in-mind my RV is lighter than most, weighing in at 9200 pounds dry.
RE: E Superduty chassis
In very recent years, Ford chassis are clearly labelled E350-SuperDuty or E450-SuperDuty. I don't know what year that chrome rectangular emblem with black lettering was added, but somewhere around 2003-2005.
As of late, the E350 or E450 is used pending the RV curb weight. RV manufacturers determine the load and then pick which chassis will be slated. I may be right in stating, staying away from the E350 chassis simply means you will be staying away from the smaller and lighter weighted RVs.
I do know the E450 was introduced later, which may bump out the 1995s to 2000s you are considering. Maybe someone can elaborate here.
RE: Looking to buy a Quality Class B +
aad,
You are less than 20 miles from Mendon, MA. Don Keller works out of his house in Mendon, calling his RV business East Acres RV. His phone number is 508-473-3265. He sells Phoenix Cruisers and has 3 or 4 brand new 2007's and 2008's in his front yard of various floorplans that he is clearing out for far less than anyone else in the country. We bought our 23.5 foot long 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 from Don last year, from over 1000 miles away. Don is in his 70's. Working with Don is like working with your grandfather. He does buisiness the old fashion way.....with honesty & integrity. No games.
Phoenix Cruisers are extremely well made with high quality materials where it counts the most, and excellent construction methods. It would surely be worth a 30 minute drive to examine the fit and form of a Phoenix Cruiser, and see what deal you can get from Don. Before your visit, watch and listen to the Phoenix Virtual Tour Of Construction. It is extremely educational, even if you are hardly mechanically inclined. If you do visit Don, tell him Ron Dittmer said hello.
If you have any other questions about East Acres RV or Phoenix Cruisers, feel free to contact me direct through a private message, email, or on this post.
RE: Sprinter Chassis Doesn't Add Up
beeser,
There are three kinds of people. Those who go for fuel economy, those who go for the capabilities, and those like you who try to make sense of it all.
I hear Ford and GM will soon be coming out with their own versions of the Dodge Sprinter chassis. Maybe you want to wait a year and see what comes out. Maybe Ford or GM will introduce a chassis that addresses everything people are concerned about on the Sprinter. Maybe Dodge too will improve upon the Sprinter.
If you just got to have that new RV now, then enjoy your research, and find that great deal on whatever you decide. Great deals are to be found these days for both new and used motorhomes, though generally speaking, not as much on Sprinter based ones.
I feel selecting what "Type" of RV is right for you, depends on how you plan to use it.
Do you plan on staying in one place for weeks or months at a time? Then interior room is more important, so the standard Ford & GM type brochures should be on your kitchen table. If the annual miles driven are low, then fuel economy should be less of an issue.
Do you plan to drive lots of miles with many stops, for 2 or 3 weeks at a time? Then a smaller, more fuel efficient unit with greater mobility is attractive. That is where the Sprinter comes into the picture, along with scaled down B+s built on E350s.
One extreme situation would be if your plan is to tow something heavy like a horse trailer (with horses of coarse) or a big boat or heavy SUV around the country, then think of special ordering an RV that has plenty of extra CCC. Select a small C that is normally built on an E350, but special order it to be built on an E450. You would then be able to tow so much more safely than any typical motorhome could. Towing your Jeep might benefit from this setup. I personally wouldn't feel comfortable towing a Jeep with a Sprinter.
You seem to lean toward fuel efficiency/mobility. Are your plans to tour the country, or park for extended periods?
RE: Supernova Ride While Towing
I have the opposite opinion as the others here. The heavier you load up the RV, the softer the ride should be.
If it were me in your shoes, I would start by investing in a set of 4 Koni-FSD shocks, then go from there.
RE: E350 Rough Ride
My opinion here Roger.
The air bags are killing you. It sounds like you are filling the air bags up to compensate for the sagging springs. Assuming you really do have a problem with the springs, I advise you get the rear springs redone or replaced as you mentioned. If after, the rear still neads a little extra lift, then add only enough air in the bags to increase the height to an acceptable level.
Also, you may be over-filling your rear tires with air. On my 2007 E350, the max weight rating is 10,500, and yours is likely near the same. I have E-rated Michelan tires. According to their website, I should be 60 psi in the rear tires and 65 psi in the front. I personally think an additional 10 psi is better for better fuel economy, but the ride is a bit harder.
Remember there will be a trade-off. Too soft of a ride will generally have increased handling issues, unless you invest further in a heavy duty rear stabilizer bar, and maybe upgrade your front bar to a heavy duty version. There are other available upgrades too, but start there. Absolutely get a wheel alignment after the springs are redone.
Re-arched versus replaced....If you can afford it, I would replace them. Reworking old springs can sometimes creak badly. It has to do with rusty metal clamped together, then moving across eachother when flexing. I had that happen on my old RV after the rear axle was upgraded. Those rear leaf springs would make a loud bang under certian conditions which was very irritating.
RE: Noisy Kitchen Stove Fan
I know exactly what you mean. The general rule applies in a house as well as an RV. No matter where used, kitchen hoods, free-standing fans, bathroom fans, it doesn't matter. Propeller fans are all noisy. Squirrel cage fans are all quiet. Squirrel cage fans move much more air with much less noise. That is why they are used in house furnaces.
That is life.
If you shop around, be sure whatever you buy has a squirrel cage fan. You will have found the solution to your complaint.
RE: I'm Thinking About Getting a Class C
Are engine noise and fuel smells typical problems in class B & C RVs? I've never even owned a van, so I have no experience here.No smells of any kind come from either the Chevy or Ford unless there is a fault of some kind.
Just about everyone would agree with the following statement regarding gasoline powered conventional RVs of today. The Chevy chassis engines are more quiet than the Fords. But the Fords are not noisy all the time. They let you know they are there when reving high like during engine braking, or climbing steep grades in a lower gear.
There is a never-ending debate which of the two is better over-all. Most people would agree the 2008/2009 Ford is better from it's recent improvements in handling, braking, and extra weight capability. It's torque-shift transmission and V10 are well suited for the application too. But the Chevy owners like theirs for the quiet engine, a tiny bit better fuel economy, a cooler floor around the engine cover, and more passenger leg room. It's a trade-off.
One more point to make. The Chevy adds 9" to the over-all length of the same RV, an important point for people counting every inch for storage reasons.
If you just got to have a diesel, that dealer I mentioned up higher has a brand new Phoenix Cruiser built on a Ford E450 diesel. He is despirate to unload it, slashing his prices on everything in his front yard. His inventory Listed Here does not reflex his bottom line price. I would offer $5000 less on anything stated, and see what happens.
RE: I'm Thinking About Getting a Class C
Most RV'ers in Class C's average only 6K miles....Good point. Gas mileage is important if racking up the miles. Not so important if staying in one place for extended periods. Then bigger is better.
When we RV, we are on-the-go people racking up the miles. So mpg and mobility are more important than interior space.
RE: I'm Thinking About Getting a Class C
Anyway, the Sprinter based diesels look like a good bet, but I'm wondering if there aren't some Ford & GM based smaller class Cs that might be a good choice as well.You will not see 13.5mpg on any conventional Ford or Chevy chassis motorhome. A fuel efficient Sprinter based class B+ with a rear slide-out/fold-out queen bed is as big a bed as you will find on the main floor. Arthitic knees means main floor bed, right?
If you are willing to sacrifice a little gas mileage, getting between 10 and 12 mpg, the scaled down Phoenix Cruiser line of motorhomes will be your best shot at fuel economy with an typical E350/E450 with V10 chassis. As long as you are not over 6 feet tall, nor heavily over-weight, they are still very roomy, especially compared to what you are used to. They are also easier to drive & park with better handling too. They are made extremely well, built to last.
Click on my "View Profile", then click on the picture to enlarge, to see the inside of my model 2350. All models have dry baths, quality cabinetery & countertops, with an extremely well made shell. Take their Virtual Tour to see what I mean. It may be worth a flight to Here to save $7000 to 10,000 or more, and drive the 1940 miles back home.
Just one idea for you.
RE: Phoenix Cruisers
Thanks for the suspension comments, Ron. Always good to hear from a fellow Trail Lite guyActually I own a Phoenix Cruiser built on a 2007 Ford E350. But I am sure the same suspension upgrades apply across the board, both for Ford and Chevy chassis. If you are experiencing handling issues, my earlier comments is where to start.
RE: Molded Fiberglass Class C?
.... I couldn't see paying over $80,000 to delete the few body seams we got.
We had a '91 Chinook. The difference is more than body seams. We had another RV back into the Chinook and there was no damage to the shell except some scraped paint. The guy really bent up the bumper, but the shell was intact. That wouldn't happen on the typical foam/Filon walls of other RVs (including our present Minnie). Oh, his rig suffered some major shell damage, not that you could really tell, since his rig was not in good shape to begin with.I hear you.
Our old RV here had an inner and outer fiberglass skin, with a honeycombed airgap in-between. I think we could have rolled the RV over on it's back, and the shell would retain it's integrity.
Though I feel the construction of our PC is excellent by most RV standards, it does not have the strength of a well made single shell design. But I'll give that up to save $80,000.
RE: Phoenix Cruisers
Very interesting.
Your 2002 Trail-Lite looks very similar in size to the PC's made since 2004. PCs made prior have a taller over-all height (maybe just the a/c unit) and they did not have the 5 sided rear cap. That cap with storage and integrated spare tire compartment was introduced in 2004.
RE: Phoenix Cruisers
The sound system stinks stock and was one of the first replacements I made, but it was good to have the wiring there.I do agree the sound system isn't very good for playing music. But for watching TV, especially action movies, we find it to be a great investment.
There is something good about being in the middle of nowhere, making a cup of coffee or tea in the evening, pulling out a desert treat topped with a scoop of icecream, and watching a good movie with great sound effects. Just ask my wife.
